Sunday, 22 November 2020
Monday, 2 November 2020
Recently I have found that I have struggled to take good photos of models. I would balance track on different boxes or mounting board but it was never a good experience. I can always use Melin Dolrhyd but the lighting isn't as far forward as it really needs to be for good photographs. I had a piece of track that originally was a DCC programming track set on something that could be fashioned into an embankment but it had no depth so something had to be done.
I found an offcut of MDF and started cutting out foamboard. I had an idea of a curve of track, set on an incline with a platform that could be used to host non track based products. The first picture shows the basic shape. A piece of wood is holding the stone walling join against the platform edge.
After that it was a case of laying track, putting some sandpaper down to represent the platform surface. Rummaging through the bits and pieces box I found some fencing from my first 009 layout and then I found a nameboard from the layout. I had to pause then as most work is done early morning and late night and I realised that static grass cannot be done in artificial light. It needs some natural, if grey, light to help with the colour blending. The second progress shows the progress after doing the grass.
After that it was onto the homeward stretch for a little bit of weathering and a hedge across the back to help with hiding the back. I also have a piece of backscene on a some floating mounting board that can go behind. The final picture is the finished product with Triumph on display with its nameplates that arrived from Narrow Planet recently.
All in all just a few hours work and now I have something readily available for photography.
Thursday, 8 October 2020
I had previously suffered some disillusion over a very low success rate with the 3D printer but I've had quite a run of success over the summer. Oddly, I had my first unsuccessful print the other day, completely out of the blue. The next print was fine but it got me wondering as to why.
Generally the 3D printer is fairly tolerant but I noted that the failed print happened right when the temperature dropped outside. The printer is upstairs in my den but it is next to the most northerly corner of the house and there is this point in the year when the temperature drops but it isn't cold enough to put the heating on.
Reading the label on the next bottle of resin I noted that it said that it works best between 25 and 30 degrees centigrade and we were definitely no longer that warm so what to be done? Reviewing the Facebook support group for my printer I noted that someone had used reptile heaters to heat the printer. You can get ones with thermostats built in but they appeared to have limited control.
In the end I elected to purchase a device that is basically a control box that has a thermometer on a cable and two mains sockets to turn the heaters on and off. I also purchased two small reptile heaters. I then had to drill some holes and into the printer to feed the cables without fouling the lid or any internal mechanisms. The reptile heaters were glued to the inside sides of the printer and the thermometer is glued to the back. All this is carried out with the Bosch cordless glue gun which is in itself a fantastic piece of kit.
Now I can set the temperature to be maintained between 26 and 28 degrees centigrade and if I put it on far enough in advance the resin will be at a suitable temperature for printing. It would benefit from more heat, these reptile pads are only 5W each but the next size up would not fit. It took a few hours the first day but the second day it hadn't cooled off that much and was up to temperature within 90 minutes. At 10W total it could be left on all day. That's less power than this computer uses and 0.3% of our kettle.
Saturday, 3 October 2020
The other project on the go is the Dundas Models Sierra Leone No 85 which runs on the Welshpool & Llanfair. Again, it's a quick build to provide extra locomotive power for the layout as and when exhibitions are back on.
Since being on the WLLR it has had some interesting liveries but after the lining of Triumph I have opted for the full black that was used on the WLLR just prior to it being withdrawn for overhaul.
The model has gone together well. I would have to say it has been one of the crispest and simplest to put together. The only place that has needed filler is round the smokebox door, the side tank pieces being of slightly different length. Unfortunately you can't just trim a piece off the other end as that end fits tightly into the rear of the cab but really it is a minor inconvenience.
One aspect of modelling it in the year before overhaul is that it had the extra coal bunkers on the front of the water tanks. The bunkers supplied in whitemetal are, of necessity, quite thick. In real life the metal of the bunker would have been half an inch maximum but the thickness of the whitemetal was such that it translates to 3 inches in real life.
I found some brass offcut and bent it to shape but I made the mistake of not filing the groove at the bends with the result that the corners were curved rather than rectangular. Once I had corrected my error it still looked rather rounded.
I knew I had to redo them but then I realised I could probably just print them. It was the work of a couple of minutes followed by a couple of hours of printing time but it gave me the opportunity to experiment with printing direct on the print bed which worked unexpectedly well, despite the fact that I made the wall thicknesses to be 0.4mm which comes out to just over 1 inch in real life.
The picture shows the three different forms, left to right. I am sure others can fabricate these parts quicker than I can print them but as it was literally 5 commands to design them and 1 extra command to produce the mirrored part, I am happy with what I can achieve.
Saturday, 26 September 2020
If you look closely at what I have achieved so far with the 3D printer it has been very much a case of how to join circles and squares together and how to curve and chamfer edges. I've made plenty of progress and this summer seems to have been very successful in terms of how few failed prints I have had.
Over drinks one evening, my friend Simon was showing his progress on an early GWR horsebox. It has the most intriguing axlebox and spring arrangement where the ends of the springs are connected to J hangers rather than directly onto the solebar which is the more traditional way of doing it. Of course, I decided this was the next challenge I needed.
As always, there is a lack of good photographic evidence since most photos of wagons have the underframe in shadow. There were a couple of good pictures so dimensions were taken and the following was drawn up.
Sunday, 20 September 2020
Another huge break between posts. How does that happen? The last 3 months have been largely devoted to 3D printing. After the success with the side windows on Triumph I knew I had to get back to the Welshpool & Llanfair Pickering coaches. The big outstanding task was the roof. How to do it? How to roll it and then the fittings. What were the best fittings, the torpedo vents and the oil lamps. After a couple of purchases that really weren't what I was looking for, I decided I must surely be able to design and print suitable ones.
I've been following Vladimir Mariano on YouTube and he has some excellent courses that have been advancing my skills at 3D design. I had to learn a few more commands but eventually I came up with the following design. There are no drawings for these so they are an interpretation of all the photographs I could lay my hand on.
Having the design is one thing, working through the practicalities of printing took more effort. Essentially the printer prints upside down so you have to think about supporting edges that are in free air. There are also issues around where resin can collect and build up in unexpected places. The final design looked like this - you chop off all the unnecessary bits after printing.
There are nearly always supports required with 3D prints and if you let the printer software add them then they conspire against you and make these size prints take 3 times the time they should. I have developed my own technique for adding supports within the CAD program which is working so far for me. I also replicate items to create strips of 12 items, 5mm apart which nicely fits the printer build plate
Bearing in mind the body of these lamps is only a few mm high they are a tad challenging to photograph but here is the best I could achieve with my camera
The torpedo vent was done in much the same way. There are some drawings but their accuracy is not assured and the photographs are challenging simply because most are taken from ground level and the Pickering coaches had an enormous rain strip which consistently hides useful detail. the WLLR does have some replica coaches but with anything replica there are going to differences with the original and I have no way of knowing what is accurate.
Again, only a few mm high so hard to photograph but the end results do seem to have been worth it.
I have also done the guard's stove chimney for the composite coach along with a brake cylinder to go under the coaches. Who knows, the coaches may make an appearance soon!
Thursday, 25 June 2020
What happened was I had some inspiration about how to do something on the 3D printer and, despite the recent problems with printing (not sticking, test file not printing, build plate shifting), I just decided to get stuck in and see where I got to.
What I ended up doing was going on journey printing windows. All the Bowaters engines had sliding windows and stable type doors. It's not clear why but there are two reasonable possibilities
- the land is very flat and so the wind howls through
- the paper business is very dusty so maybe there is a lot of paper dust flying around
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